Tuesday 10 May 2016

A paradise called Pench - Apr 2016 - Camp 23 (By Rucha Sahasrabudhe)

First Flight:

With wings of hope, feathered with care,
We began the journey, yet unaware,

Of the beauty awaiting us at bay,
Of the dry lands where wild animals play,

In windy sun and mildew of night,
We found our way through harsh sunlight,

And in these forests of Pench we saw,
A myriad of changes in the foot, claw and paw,

Oh what a cherished sight it made,
To see how far the forest laid,

It's trees so scattered and so few,
It's life so fresh and death so new,

Yet it wasn't the sorrow, there was no strife,
For in the wild, this is the circle of life.


Pench national park is a beautiful place to be in. It gives you peace of mind and the silence after the city lights is a blessing. So is the dark night filled with stars that one can see almost from horizon to horizon.

Pench National park is located between Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh. It can be accessed from two gates.

Despite a recent attempt at poisoning the lake, all is well in the park. The authorities have also now made sure that no such incident takes place again. Security at the gates has been increased and checking is much stricter. For more information about Pench National Park please click the link below:

Pench National Park

A ride among clouds and trees:

The anticipation of seeing a tiger, the hope of seeing nature at it's best, the will to wait it out till these wishes are fulfilled is what makes the journey from home to the jungle so exciting. And of course there's the ice-breaking with new people and hoping we find a friend in them all. We started our journey, all of us, with dreams of rustling of leaves,crackling of gravel and the scent of the earth, for we knew we were to find it all where nature flourishes.

That morning was one of enjoyment as we gathered to celebrate a birthday.

In the evening we had some introductions and laughter. The youngsters all had a celebration of their own and we were all hollering as we teased some and backed some up on our debate of how 5-3-2 is played.

All of us were rather tired after reaching Hotel Baaz. Our bellies full of idlis and dosas, and dosing from time to time, yet euphoric, we began traveling for our first ride.

We saw many birds that day. A jackal strolled out from the bushes to walk beside us for quite some time. A pack of wild dogs lounging near a small pond of water and deer grazing calmly with peacocks strutting along...These were the sights that told us how sleepy the forest was feeling. It did show promise of activity later though and we returned with satisfied spirits.

It was in all a wonderful start. We ended up after three days, exploring bits of ourselves as we explored the forest!

In midst of the woods:

There we were, early next morning hoping for a wake-up call from the forest. This second ride was the best of all. It merits a poem :-

As dawn rose against the April sky,
I found birds are not all that fly,

For our thoughts flew right into space,
Our heartbeats tried to keep them pace.

For we had hopes in our minds of a good sight,
As in our eyes we had some sleep to fight,

That day was a fair share for us all,
And we returned with memories of more than a call.

So how does news travel in the forest?

Among animals, it travels with the speed of sound;literally. Whereas among us humans it travels with the speed of gestures. The center point is like the listening side of the wall.Here the news is passed from mouth to ear swiftly.

Our gypsy was stationed at the center point and we were having breakfast. Out of the blue (or rather, green) it seemed, a tigress had come our way;literally. We didn't stop to debate, there was no thought. As a unit,we packed up unfinished breakfast in a hustle and drove away like bats in hell. To see Collar-wali rumored to be spotted on Route 1. 

On the route were many gypsies waiting for her majesty to grace us with her presence. We silently joined them. After sweating for a long time in a pin-drop silence in the burning sun, we drove a little ways ahead and saw some jackal cubs completely camouflaged by leaves. After a while, we backtracked, and voilà!

There she was, the beautiful Collar-wali. She walked right towards our gypsy and crossed the road, making her way along it for a long time. How awe-inspiring the sight was!

In the evening, we chatted a lot as a group, had some fun....and then went on a night trail!

As stars burn out:

Feathered skies and trailing sun, 
gone in a split over the horizon,

A twilit trace of silent night, 
comes creeping in with faded light.

And the trail began. We were armed with torches, sticks, hope and courage...and as a group we set out, walking a long winding road in the forest. That's the beauty of it.

When the shadows slither in the torch's beam,
when the sounds turn out to be far from what they seem,

you still hear and see the electricity of silence and nervousness,
your tired eyes and ears want to rest,
but you don't feel it as much as you feel the beauty of the forest.

That's the beauty of it.


We reached a gate where we were later to learn, two tigers and a leopard had been spotted not less than a year ago. We crossed a bridge flung over a drying canal where one recorded had walked. Our eyes popped after we realized, back at the hotel, where exactly we'd just been.

There was a lake beyond the gate and we all stood along the bank wanting to get a glimpse of something. Much time was spent in getting everyone to quiet down, and then some in star gazing.

As we sat on the bank with our torches off, I remember thinking,"What if I were alone here?" Imagining that, and it can only happen in that pin drop silence, was truly a blessing. For once, you want to feel like you're all alone in midst of a crowd. And then you are. You forget about everyone as two eyes gleam at you in the dead of the night, whether it's a bird or a tiger.

We were fortunate enough to see two birds flying away and then, as we got up and strolled along the shore, lo and behold ! Out of a shady bush, two green eyes gleamed in the flash of a torch, bobbed up and down in the gait of the majestic walk, paws hushing the ground below.

Had it not been for the lucky swing of the torch and the brilliant eyes of people, we would never have seen the tiger/tigress make his or her way along the shore for about quite a distance. It was rather dark and none of us could capture an image before the tiger or tigress vanished into the thicket. It was more than worth the sight, all the long walk, the keeping a pin-drop silence, the nervousness, the excitement...all worth it.

The next day dawned quick and clear, and it was time for our last ride. We set out like the day before dressed like bandits with our heads and mouths all covered, most of us wearing sun coats.

That's another thing about going out to a camp like this. You don't have to worry about how you dress, how you look. Nobody cares; not even you. You're not there for yourself, as much as that is actually true. You're there for a chance to see some of the most beautiful creatures ever to exist.

The last ride too was like the first one: we heard calls, saw many birds, jackals,wild boars and wild dogs. We said goodbye to the forest with a sorrowful heart that yet vowed to return. And return we will someday to the forest, for the nature is truly where we belong, where we can be ourselves without the pressures of the society.

And as the sun's burn lessened, we felt like the night before, when the stars had started to burn out....it was time to go, and we knew what awaited us. With routine, there's only one way the day and night can go. In the jungle, the day and night hold surprises you never get tired of.

Farewell to the Land of Mowgli:

We were in Haldirams at Nagpur when we said our goodbyes, as half of us were going by train, and half by plane. It was time to go where we came from. But instead of gifts and presents we usually bring home for family and friends, we brought back memories.

And fabulous photos, credits for which go to Kedar Kulkarni, Ninaad Joshi and Amodh Joshi. A long and frankly tiring effort by Shreya Kulkarni, a good friend and birder, is the bird list below the photos. There is also an animal list below it.                  




Card Games


Bus Travel


At Ajani Station

Happy birthday Amit!!


And Celebration


Jo Khayega Ber, Use Dikhega Sher!!


Ready for the Safari!


Deciduous Jungle


Dirt Tracks

Mahua
 
Ghost Tree


Roller with a kill
Catching it

Ready to Eat now!


Malabar Pied Hornbill


White Rumped Vulture


Golden Flameback

Tickell's Blue Flycatcher


Yello Wattled Lapwing


Brown Headed Barbet


Brown Headed Barbet


Golden Oriel


Red Jungle Fowl


Pea Fowl Display
Crested Serpent Eagle


CSE

White Eyed Buzzard


Painted Spurfowl



Indian Grey Hornbill in Flight


Grey Headed Starling


Sirkir's Malkoha


Orange Headed Thrush


Jackal





Mom and Me!




 












Jackal Pup!
Wild Dog


Sambar Deer surrounded by pack of 15 wild dogs





Wild Dog, locking new targets


Kill


Half Eaten, but alive!


My Water hole!


Fight for the remains
 
Monitor Lizard



Thirsty spotted Deer
 
Dead Python!


Eyes of the Jungle in Making!


The Eyes!


Collarwali


Collarwali


Collarwali




Raiyakasa Male


Raiyakasa Male












Territory Marking


Baddeo Female


Collarwali


Baddeo Female Cub


Collarwali


Collarwali


Collarwali


Collarwali


Baddeo Female Cubs


Baddeo Female and a male Cubs


Signed up on Kedar's cap!!


Where is our Kill!


Kids Gang


35!

List of  Birds:

1.    Rufous tree-pie
2.    Brown headed barbet
3.    Crested serpent eagle
4.    Asian paradise flycatcher
5.    Indian roller
6.    Black naped monarch
7.    Jungle owlet
8.    Spotted owlet
9.   Tickell’s blue flycatcher
10.  White rumped vulture
11.  White throated kingfisher
12.  Common myna
13.  Malabar pied hornbill
14.  Grey hornbill
15.  Shikra
16.  Indian peafowl
17.  Wooly necked stork
18.  Black hooded oriole
19.  Golden oriole
20.  Black drongo
21.  White bellied drongo
22.  Racket tailed drongo
23.  Red crowned woodpecker
24.  Black rumped flameback woodpecker
25.  Laughing dove
26.  Spotted dove
27.  Eurasian collard dove
28.  Rose ringed parakeet
29.  Alexandrine parakeet
30.  Plum headed parakeet
31.  Pied kingfisher
32.  Coppersmith barbet
33.  Changeable hawk eagle
34.  Grey headed fish eagle
35.  Tawny eagle
36.  Black shouldered kite
37.  Honey buzzard
38.  White eyed buzzard
39.  Common crow
40.  Jungle crow
41.  European roller
42.  Chestnut tailed starling
43.  Pied myna
44.  Bramhiny starling
45.  Asian openbill stork
46.  Black headed ibis
47.  Painted stork
48.  Cattle egret
49.  Little egret
50.  Pond heron
51.  Yellow wagtail
52.  White browed wagtail
53.  Jungle babbler
54.  Tailor bird
55.  Ashy prinia
56.  Plain prinia
57.  Common woodshrike
58.  Oriental white eye
59.  Red vented bulbul
60.  Painted spurfowl
61.  Red jungle fowl
62.  Oriental magpie robin
63.  White throated fantail flycatcher
64.  Purple sunbird
65.  Gold fronted leafbird
66.  Sirkeer malkoha
67.  House sparrow
68.  Scaly breasted munia
69.  Tricolored munia
70.  Yellow throated sparrow
71.  Red wattled lapwing
72.  Eurasian thick knee
73.  Rock pigeon
74.  Green bee- eater
75.   Indian robin
76.  Orange headed thrush
77.  Greater coucal
78.  Yellow footed green pigeon
79.  Singing bush lark
80.  Pied bush chat
81.  Paddyfield pipit
82.  Indian nightjar
83.  Barn swallow
84.  Wire tailed swallow
85.  House swift
86.  Dusky crag martin
87.  Red naped ibis
88.  Silverbill
89.  Crested treeswift
90.  Grey wagtail
91.  Black kite
92.  King vulture
93.  Great tit
94.  Little cormorant
95.  Intermediate egret
96.  Common hawk eagle
97.  Common kestrel
98.  Asian koel
99.  Small minivet
100. Great egret
101. House swift
102. Yellow wattled lapwing

List of animals:

1. Tiger
2. Spotted deer (Chital)
3. Barking deer
4. Sambar deer
5. Blue Bull (Nilgai)
6. Indian Gaur (Gawe)
7. Wild dogs
8. Jackals (Landga)
9. Monitor Lizard
10.Wild Boar




Thank you all for reading till the end.

Tuesday 3 May 2016

Bera Road Trip - March 2016 - By Pushkar Shirolkar

As I cruise at 40,000 feet above sea level, 860 kmph, I'm reminiscing the adventurous trip I took with my friends a couple of weeks ago. Wondering, is this the right place to write about something that happened in a deserted area. I mean the contrasts are too high, I'm at -63˚C and the travelogue I'm trying to pen in, is about an area that's at +40˚C. But, with the schedule that I'm working these days, there won't be another time to get my thoughts together. It's kinda calm right now, no disturbance from ANYONE, sipping my coffee - what more could I ask for !

Getting to the wild has always been something that I long for. The urban life takes a toll on you and like minded people want to break away and get into the wild, be with the nature and get back to the roots. It's always refreshing !

Kuchnar flowers
Palas flower

Ninaad, Kedar and I had discussed about going to Bera I guess almost more than a year ago, never did it cross my mind that it would suddenly fall in my lap. As Kedar does always, he messaged me about the trip to Bera, the most sought after place to watch leopards. One of the most interesting species of the cat family. Shy, territorial and now very low in numbers across the globe. Having visited multiple national parks, I had always missed an encounter with this special creature. Can I call it bad luck ? Maybe, but how many people really believe in luck !? I checked my schedule and it looked pretty doable and it was all decided. Apart from the leopards, another interesting part was the 'road trip' - almost 950 kms from Pune !!

The Three Musketeers

Day 1
We started off in the evening after finishing our office and hit the road. Driving on open highways is something we all look forward to, especially if you do something similar to me - cross the city everyday for work, manoeuvring the amazing traffic. Since the journey was long we had planned for a halt at night just as we cross the Gujrat border.

Day 2
We started early the next day and the never ending roads touching the horizon looked beautiful in the morning mist. Kedar's powerful XUV 500 wasn't ready to stop except for the much needed breaks for the humans that it carried. A friend of mine, Amit Gijare had urged me not to miss the Step Wells at Adalaj on the way near Gandhinagar, which were built in the year 1499. To our surprise, this was very unique and exquisite and we had never seen anything like this. It's always great to see such structures built hundreds of years back, which depicts the rich heritage of our nation.

Carving at the step wells

Step wells

There was a detour that was planned, rather I was ignorant enough not to read when it came up on the WhatsApp group. Instead of heading straight to Bera for the night, we went to Jessour. This is a place well known for the sloth bears. It was decided that we'd stay there for the night and leave early morning for Bera.

The road off from the highway had something very different in store for us. Being a holiday for Dhuli Vandan, it happened to be a big festival for the local tribal people in this area. Since, this is not a place that's visited too often, they stop the cars by closing the roads with branches of thorny trees and unless you tip them off, they don't allow you to go ahead. This was surely quite unusual, never seen before. As we gave some money the first time, in a patch of 2-3 kms, we were stopped almost 10-15 times for the same reason. This started to get us irritated and I'd jump out of the car and ask the locals to clear off - kind of in a stern voice. Towards the end we were greeted by a big group of tribal girls who started dancing in front of our car and wouldn't budge unless we tip them. This was quite entertaining and we gave up being irritated and said to ourselves - this is the culture, let's just gel in, no point in getting frustrated :)

Squirrels at Jessour

We were a bit disappointed as we were told that due to the festive season they were low on staff and the bear sighting was also low. We loitered around a bit, spent some time birding in the wonderful lake that was feeding water to this region. Though these were the usual birds that we've had an opportunity to click quite often, we did manage to get some good snaps here.


Lake at Jessour

Little ringed plover

Kingfisher

Spoon bill and Painted Stork

Cotton pigmy goose and little grebe

We decided to head straight towards Bera and ensured we had another day of stay arranged for. It was quite a hunt to find this place in the midst of the small town and managed to reach there late night. To our surprise this happened to be an old mini-palace of one of the descendants of Maha Rana Pratap. The twin cities Nana-Bera are actually the names of the sons of the descendants. The owner was the last known of these descendants. A well read man staying with his intelligent wife, with the house converted as home stay was a perfect spot for us to spend our next few nights.

Day 3
We started early to go to the the jungle, I'd rather call it the hilly areas where the leopards reside. Early morning winter was quite pleasing especially when we were coming from the hot weather of Pune. The sunrise was absolutely mesmerising and set our morning mood. 





Terrain at Bera

We waited at a place where they used to tie a bait for the leopard to come over and have it's free lunch. However, this practice is now stopped by the forest department, we nevertheless, tried our luck.


Grey Francolin

We moved further as there was no sign of leopards. We saw a fleet of cars parked as they had sighted a leopard. Our car sped across and we started to set our camera's. The leopards were quite far off in the hills and the person who spotted them surely had a fantastic eyesight. It was quite difficult even with binoculars too as they camouflage too well in these hills. We finally saw the leopards (mama and cub) and tried to get a some pics. However, with the shadows of the mountains we could hardly get any good snaps. We tried endlessly but didn't get any crisp pics. Finally as the day dawned, the leopards also went off as they knew that in no time the sun would be scorching hot making it unbearable for anyone to stay outside. We too went back to our hotel and took some rest as we had to do another ride post lunch. We were treated by some awesome home cooked food, which ensured that we could take a power nap immediately after that.


The afternoon ride was making us quite eager as we knew the location of the leopard and were expecting it to be around at the same spot. We tried our luck at another place just to check if we can see some other leopards. However, we got none. As we were losing patience, it made sense for us to go to the same spot as in the morning and to our surprise, the leopards (mama and cub) were still there and ensured they kept all the tourists & photographers busy. We closed the day well, but low light was not very photographer friendly !

Day 4
This morning, we headed out earlier so as to get undisturbed view of the leopards. This was more than a treat. Up in the mountains at the same spot - mama and 2 cubs were out ready to greet us !! The mama and cubs were playing, lazing around in the morning, which surely made our day !





We met another like minded nature enthusiast (Aseem Kothiala) who recommended us to visit Mount Abu for a rare species of bird that was found in this region. He also gave a contact in Abu who would guide us around and ensure that we get a good sighting. Post breakfast, we checked out of the beautiful home stay, where we had amazing, sumptuous and delicious food AND the warmth and comfort provided by DhananjaySingh Ranawat and his wife.


With the Ranawat couple

As we headed towards Mount Abu, the skies started to get a bit cloudy and we were a bit apprehensive of what was in store for us. Luckily Mount Abu wasn't cloudy, the weather was just beautiful. We met our guide and to our luck he happened to be the most wonderful guy. With vast experience and many stories to share he first took us the Dilwara temple. The most exquisite place on Earth is all what I can write. What our ancestors have been able to achieve 950 years back, it makes you feel as if you're in the stone age today. The carvings, symmetry, craftsmanship, imagination and creativity all on marble is all just impossible to replicate in today's world. This is a MUST visit place on this planet. All other 'wonders of the world' look pretty insignificant.

Road to Mount Abu

After this breathtaking experience we roamed around in the Aravali hills, we were at the top of the oldest mountain ranges on Earth - this mountain range has beauty of its own. Absolutely brilliant !


The main reason that had brought us to Mount Abu was the next destination for us - the Green Munia. This bird is endemic and the guide knew exactly where we could see this bird. The images below will surely give you a glimpse of this beautiful bird. Being caught in bird trade, the numbers have reduced a lot, thus making it an endangered species.

Green Munia
Green Munia
Green Munia

Brahminy Starling

Crested Bunting

Having taking pics of this bird to our hearts content, we decided to head back to Pune. The journey being long, we decided to take a halt for the night and continue the next day. Overall a very fulfilling road trip with lots of memories, excitement and crossing "toch" bridges on our way back !! :)




--- THE END ---