Day 12 (19 Aug 2014) - Tso Moriri - Keylong
With all the planned destination visited with great enthusiasm, we decided to start our return journey. Even though it was beginning of the return journey, by no means it was boring. Our return path was different and we planned to go via Manali, Himachal Pradesh
The high level road map for the return journey was as follows
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| Tso Moriri - Rupnagar |
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| Rupnagar - Pune |
We decided to start early morning as soon as we get to see some light. As told by many, we need to start early to avoid the heavy water flows of melting snow, post noon. We did not want to take any chances. Also the roads were also not up to the mark in the section ahead. Early morning as we started, it was pretty cold in the morning. All seasons were seen so far in the journey. But the weather was very kind to us and has pleasantly surprised us so far. Today the temperatures were below zero for the first time. We tuned our car to show us the temperature. It was varying from 0 to -3 from 6 AM till 8 AM that morning.
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| Negative for first time |
Sun was out but we could not see it. Sun rays above the horizon were very differently seen that day. This was a really wonderful sight..
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| Sun Rise |
Many water streams carry the melted water to Tso Moriri. Due to negative temperatures the streams were frozen. The uppermost layer was crystallized and was very brittle. It created nice patterns of the frost.
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| Freeze |
From Tso Moriri there were almost no roads. There were 4, 5 different tyre marks going in parallel. You get puzzled as in which road is fine. But we finally got to know that all these roads are correct and go in parallel. On the way we saw the vehicles going to Tso Moriri from very far away from us..
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| This is not Off Roading, thats the raod!! |
We were traveling over 15,000 feet all along. Most of the landscapes were similar to the earlier. So was engaged myself with the telescopic lens to see if I can find something unique. During one of the breaks we took, I heard a continuous screaming of the raptor. I tried to locate it for few minutes but the camouflaged juvenile of the golden eagle was too difficult to find.
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| Juvenile Golden Eagle |
The road was a just a dirt track with lot of pointed stones on the road. There were absolutely no vehicles on the road. We were traveling in convoy. Arnold was behind us in the XUV. Few minutes later we did not see him in the rear view and decided to stop. Waited for 10 min but still he did come. We decided to go back to locate him. As we took reverse for about 200 meters we saw that he is out of the car with the extra tyre. We understood that he has a flat tyre. But when we saw it, it was burst on side walls. Due to bad roads, the tyre roar was so high, that we never heard his honking behind when he got the flat tyre. At that altitude, mounting the car on jack and changing the tyre was a nightmare. With lot of sweating even at sub zero temperatures, we got his tyre replaced. It was a blessing in disguise that we were in convoy and could help each other.
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| Hard Work at High Altitude |
With all work done, we were just relaxing for few minutes before leaving the spot. I saw some movement in the big rocks. Pulled out the bigger lens and found the guy who moved. As soon as I spotted him, I briskly moved to take his photograph. But this guy was very quick. He started hopping through the stones and away from me. Just managed to get one clear shot..
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| Cape Hare (Ribong) |
Also along the way caught this small bird in my camera. This lark do make nest on the ground. I would request all the enthusiast drivers to refrain from doing the off-roading for the same reason. Always follow the tyre marks and don't venture beyond which might be falat, if not for you then may be for these lovely friends.
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| Horned Lark |
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| Common Raven |
The roads were bad till we hit the Leh - Manali highway. As we met that road at Debring, we took another break for tea where I got another chance to take photographs of some unique things. The hotel guy showed me the remains of Bharal Sheep that he got on the mountain top.
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| Remains of Bharal Sheep | | | |
Also saw a lady offering her prayers with this little thing in her hand.
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| The lady with prayers |
Post Debring there are long amazing plains. Those are called as More plains.
More plains is crossed by the road from Leh to Manali. This stretch of 40 km falls in between Leh and Sarchu on Manali-Leh Highway. This road has an average elevation of 13000 ft and is flanked by mountain ranges on both sides. At some places the road runs along the Sumkhel Lungpa river featuring some stunning sand and rock natural formations. The plain area starts after covering around 4 km uphill road from Pang towards Tanglang La pass.
We crossed couple of high passes thereafter to get into Himachal Pradesh.
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More Plains
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More Plains
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| Lachulung La |
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| High passes and dirt roads |
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| Nakee La |
Gata Loops is a series of twenty one hairpin bends that takes you down from Nakeela. It stunning location, breath taking scenery around it and the difficult ascent /descent.
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| Gata Loops |
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| Gata Loops |
Somewhere on this road you will notice a dump of mineral water bottles,
in the middle of nowhere with a small temple nearby, a flag fluttering
on top of it. A dump of plastic waste like that can be an eyesore in
such a beautiful landscape but that is not the strange part. Strange
part is that all these bottles are full of water, some of them even
sealed pack.
It is said that years ago, a truck broke down on one of these loops.
The driver walked towards a nearby village to seek a mechanic while the
cleaner stayed back with the truck as it was loaded with the cargo. The
driver, after walking for miles and miles finally reached a village but
alas, there was no mechanic available there. While the driver was still
at the village, it started to snow heavily and the weather closed in so
he had no option but to stay at the village, well aware that the
cleaner was stranded on the road, with the truck. But there was nothing
he could do. It was several days before the weather cleared and help
came by. They all immediately went back to the spot where the truck
broke down only to find the cleaner dead, due to thirst and exposure to
cold weather. Rather than carrying a dead and decomposing body back
home, the poor guy was buried right where he died.
So the legend says that after this incident, people started meeting a
beggar on the loops who begged them for the water. People who refused
suffered serious mountain sickness (some even died of it, it is said)
and the ones who offered water to the beggar out of pity saw the bottles
they offered drop right through the man's hands, while he still kept
begging them for water. Terror struck the region and only subsided when
the locals set up a memorial at the site and made offerings of water to
placate the ghost.
So is the legend of the ghost of gata loops where people still stop and make offerings of water.
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| For the Ghost of Gata Loops |
Many people use this road to go to Ladhakh. So to welcome all the travelers this unique board is written to welcome them in their own language - Julley
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| Julley |
We took a Maggie break at Sarchu where I captured some more birds before having food. Saw few species common to the Ladakh region and also captured a Pigeon which look similar to the Rock pigeon but when it flies we could see the white band on the back. That makes it Hill pigeon.
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| Black Redstart Male |
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| Yellow Billed Chough |
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| Redstart Female? |
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| Hill Pigeon |
After crossing the Baralacha la we saw another beautiful lake called Suraj Tal. Now we are in Himachal so, its not Tso any more.
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| Suraj Tal |
We reached Keylong in the evening. Its a beautiful town in Himachal with lot of greenery. Tall mountains, deep valleys and the Chenab river flowing through it makes this little town very wonderful.
Day 13 (20 Aug 2014) - Keylong - Rupnagar
After an overnight stay in Keylong we started for the return journey via Manali. Today we have to cross another wonderful location called Rohtang pass. As we started moving towards Manali / Rohtang, the lovely snowy peaks welcomed us. Though the landscapes have now changed from the barren cold deserts to green mountains. The sky is still clear blue and no clouds to see.
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| Near Rohtang |
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| Now all green |
We climbed the Rohtang, which was the toughest road so far. The road had very high ascend and the road condition was pathetic. It would be very difficult for the small vehicles. On this path haven't seen any small petrol vehicles at all.
But as we crossed Rohtang we could see the change in skyscape. Suddenly we could see lot of clouds. This was just like a miracle.
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| On Rohtang Top |
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| Towards Manali |
On Rohtang, there was lot of snow and we did not miss the opportunity to get into a small snow cave!!
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| Rohtang |
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| Clouds |
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| Waterfalls |
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| Curves |
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| Lovely Himachal |
As we climbed down, there are many small restaurants where we took a breakfast halt. Many birds were seen in here. The most amazing was the Himalayan Griffon. Got to see it from pretty close once again.
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| Yellow Wagtail |
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| Grey Wagtail |
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| Himalayan Griffon |
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| Landing |
Also saw the unique way way of keeping the cold drink chilled!!
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| Chilled |
Also met some furry friends on the way!!
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| Furry Friends |
For couple of days, we had not seen a fueling station. Finally we were at the fueling station near Manali. This fuel station is the last one on the Manali Leh road for all the tourists who start from Manali to Leh, the next pump is in Leh.
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| 365 KM only |
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| Himachali Construction |
As we moved towards Mandi, got to capture a Himachali man in their own traditional hat!
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| Himachal |
We were confused whether to stay at Mandi or move ahead. It was not very late so we decided to move towards Rupnagar Punjab. Did some more birding on the road and continued to travel till midnight.
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| Grey Breasted Prinia |
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| Dragonfly id? |
Towards evening we had seen some mesmerizing views of Himachal..
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| River |
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| Bigger Water bodies |
Day 14 /15 (21, 22 Aug 2014) - Rupnagar - Jaipur - Pune
Started in the morning with target as Jaipur.A Tough one for a day ride but decide to make it. Not many breaks were taken. In afternoon we were in Pujab and we halted at Hotel Haweli, which is amazing chain of restaurants. Took few snaps in here as well.
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| Hotel Haveli |
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| Pujabi Food |
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| Punjabi Sardar |
After heavy lunch we pushed on to reach Jaipur by late evening and decided to take a break that night. We even had a small party to celebrate our successful trip to Leh.
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| Jaipur TP |
Thereafter we did the non-stop journey to Pune. On the way said good bye to Arnold as he wanted to go via Gujarath route and we decided to return via same route. On 22nd Aug early morning we were in Pune after clocking 6426 Km in 17 days.
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| 6426 Km |
Throughout the journey, we crossed multiple peaks and touch altitudes of 18k.
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| Altitudes |
This was an amazing, thrilling and lifetime experience. I hope I have not bored you too much by huge amount of photographs!!
As the thanksgiving happened towards the start of the blog, there is no further extension to this blog. But one more thing that I did not mentioned earlier is about the sign boards. BRO has placed sign boards in every corner of the road. I have clicked few of those to form a collage. It has all the lessons of defensive driving. BRO is too good in writing those, making the rhymes wherever possible and being naughty at times!!
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| Sign Boards |
I hope I might have added this destination in your wishlist by now. Thanks all for reading my travelogue. I wish you all the best for your upcoming trip to this region. Once again I will use BRO sign board to say thanks to all of you!!
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| Thanks |
See you soon, with something equally interesting!!
