Showing posts with label Malabar Pit Viper. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Malabar Pit Viper. Show all posts

Wednesday, 24 August 2016

आंबोली... - जुलै २०१६ - कॅम्प २५ (लेखक - मनीषा शेट्टी)

आंबोली...


महाराष्ट्राचं चेरापुंजी..
Hotspot in Biodiversity.. 
सह्याद्रीच्या पर्वतरांगांत वसलेलं एक हिलस्टेशन..
उंचच उंच वृक्ष, खळाळते धबधबे यांनी सजलेलं, नटलेलं वर्षावन..
       अशा एक ना अनेक विशेषणांनी प्रसिद्ध असलेल्या आंबोलीला मी आत्तापर्यंत कधीही गेले नव्हते पण जेव्हा गेले तेव्हा मात्र या सर्व विशेषणात माझ्यातर्फे आणखीन भरच पडली....
ज्यांना चिंब भिजवणाऱ्या पावसात मनसोक्त भटकायला, ट्रेकिंग करायला आवडतं त्यांच्यासाठी; अगदी नियमित वारी करावी अशी पंढरी म्हणजे आंबोली...
आणि ज्यांना फोटोग्राफी प्रचंड आवडते त्यांच्या साठी विशेषतः मॅक्रो फोटोग्राफर्स साठी नंदनवन म्हणजे आंबोली...
कारण पावसाळ्यात आंबोलीतील प्रत्येक अणुरेणूच जणू जिवंत होतो. झाडापानांवरच नाही तर गळून पडलेल्या पानांखाली, कुजलेल्या ओंडक्याखाली किंवा अगदी खडकांच्या सांदरकपारीतही जिथे पहाल तिथे कोणता ना कोणता जीव श्वास घेत असतो.. असंख्य नमुण्यांचे कीटक, सर्प, उभयचर प्राणी, पक्षी, फुलपाखरं, गोगलगायी, जळू, अळ्या, अंडी, tadpole अशी जगण्याची अनेकविध रूपं पाहायला मिळतात...अनुभवायला मिळतात... असं वाटतं की जणू पानापानांतून टपटपणाऱ्या पागोळ्यांतुन जीवनच ठिबकतंय.. बहरतंय...

     अशीच पावसाळ्यातली आंबोली अनुभवायला आमचा १९ जणांचा iCampers चा चमू शनिवारी दुपारी १ वाजता तिथे पोहोचला. तिथं पर्यंत जाण्याचा रस्ताच इतका सुंदर आहे की प्रवासाचा शीण अजिबात जाणवत देखील नाही... क्षितिजापार नजर जाईस्तोवर हिरवाई... झाडेही जणु मॉस चा हिरवा स्वेटर घालून बसलेली आणि ते कमी कि काय म्हणून अधून मधून धुक्याची शुभ्र दुलईही लपेटून घ्यायची..  मधूनच कधी भुरभुर, कधी टपटप, कधी सरसर तर कधी धोधो पावसाची हजेरी... सगळंच  अगदी स्वप्नवत...  आपण खूप आनंदी असलो तर "I am on Cloud 9..." अशी जी म्हणायची पद्धत आहे ना ती आम्ही अक्षरशः अनुभवत होतो..

     हवेतील मंदमंदसा गारवा आणि ४-५ तासांचा प्रवास यांनी भूक पण झपाटून लागली होती त्यामुळं सर्वात आधी जेवणाकडे मोर्चा वळला. पोळी भाजी बरोबरच गरमागरम वाफाळलेला भात, खोबऱ्याच वाटण लावलेलं फोडणीचं वरण, तळलेला पापड, लोणचं आणि कोकणी स्पेशल सोलकढी यावर मनसोक्त ताव मारला. खालचा  फोटो पाहून हे कळेलच की लोकांनी कशी बोटं सुद्धा चाटून पुसून खाल्ली...
   


J1
 
       जेवण करून ताजंतवानं झाल्यावर आता वेध लागले होते भटकंतीचे..  सगळ्यांच्या मनात Jungle Trail बद्दल जितकी उत्सुकता होती तेवढीच किंबहुना थोडी जादाच भीती जळवांच्या बद्दल होती आणि पाऊस तर संततधार सुरूच होता त्यामुळे त्या दोहोंचा पुरता बंदोबस्त करून आम्ही पहिल्या ट्रेल ला निघालो. गाईड म्हणून तिथले अनुभवी काका भिसे सोबतीला होतेच.     
 
Here we start! Sharp shooters.. On the move..
           
झिरमिर पाऊस.. मनां मनांतला .. 

Sachin and Meha


     सर्व प्रथम आंबोली बुश या फ्रॉग ची अंडी पाहायला मिळाली. ती इतकी सुंदर दिसत होती की सुबकपणे मांडलेली मोत्यांची आरासच जणू. त्या पारदर्शी अंड्यातून वेगवेगळ्या स्टेजेस मधली बेडकाची चिल्ली पिल्ली  पाहणं म्हणजे खरोखर एक पर्वणीच होती. जरा पुढे गेलो तर अनेक टॅडपोल्स पोहण्याचा सराव करण्यात गुंग होते. जसजसे पुढे जाऊ तसतसे आंबोली बुश फ्रॉग, ट्रायकलर फ्रॉग, गार्डन लिझार्ड, कॅटरपिलर, गोगलगाय  आणि हो ज्यांची सगळ्यात जास्त भीती होती त्या जळू पण दिसल्या पण सुदैवाने कोणालाही त्या लागल्या नाहीत. बरं या सगळ्या दिसणाऱ्या मंडळींना आम्हाला नुसते डोळ्यात साठवायचे नव्हते तर कॅमेऱ्यात कैद ही करायचे होते. त्यामुळे होणारी तारांबळ तर अगदी पाहण्याजोगी होती.

     नुसती कल्पना करून पहा... वरुन सतत पडणारा पाऊस, खाली एकतर शेवाळलेला, निसरडा रस्ता  किंवा चिखलाने माखलेली पायवाट, त्यांवरही कुजक्या पानांचा जाडसर थर, अंगावर रेनकोट किंवा पॉन्चो, एका हातात कॅमेरा अन एका हातात छत्री, आणि पावसापासून कॅमेऱ्याला वाचवत वाचवत फोटो काढण्याची केविलवाणी धडपड... हे सगळं आत्ता वाचताना विनोदी वाटतंय खरं, पण तेव्हा मात्र एक दोघंजण घसरुन पडले तर काहींनी बेडूक जळवा पाहून किंचाळत उड्या सुद्धा मारल्या... पण या सगळ्यात मला मात्र कौतुक वाटत होते ते आमच्या छोट्या मेहा आणि तनुषचे...  काका भिसे तर आम्हाला एका पाठोपाठ एक प्राणी दाखवत होतेच पण हा आमचा छोटा वाटाड्या तनुष ही अजिबात मागे नव्हता. इतक्या छोट्या वयातही त्याला निसर्गाची, पशूपक्षांची  असलेली आवड सुखावत होती आणि त्याला मस्त sighting पण होत होतं.

Tanush and Meha


        या एवढ्या तीन साडेतीन तासांच्या वाटचालीत आंबोलीचा प्रसिद्ध Malabar Gliding Frog मात्र अजून दिसला नव्हता. काकांना तसं विचारल्यावर कळालं की दिवसा ते Canopy मध्ये म्हणजे झाडांच्या वरच्या भागात असतात आणि रात्री खाली झाडांच्या बुंध्यांवर येतात हे ऐकल्यावर मला जाणवलं, की आपण किती सहजपणे जंगलाचा, 'हे आंबोलीचं जंगल' असा एकेरी उल्लेख करतो आहोत जसं काही हे एक युनिटच आहे, इकडून तिकडे सारखंच..  पण खरंतर जंगलात देखील एक अदृश्य छप्पर असतं, पारदर्शक भिंती असतात आणि काळोख तळघर देखील असतं...  प्रत्येकाची territory, प्रत्येकाचा  अधिवास  पक्का ठरलेला असतो आणि त्या अधिवासात राहण्यासाठी पशुपक्षीही बाध्य असतात.. आपण कितीही "पक्षांसारखं मुक्त, स्वतंत्र" अशा उपमा वापरल्या तरी तेही काही अंशी त्यांच्या अधिवासाचे बंदीच असतात... नाहीतर चिमणीनेही घारीसारख्या उंच आकाशात घिरट्या घातल्या असत्या आणि घारीने देखील चिमणी सारखी बिनदिक्कत जमिनीलगत घरटी बांधली असती... जंगलाबद्दल आज मला काहीतरी नव्यानंच उमजलं...

        हॉटेलवर परतल्यावर मात्र  most wanted वाफाळलेला चहा आणि तोही गरमागरम भजी बरोबर मिळाला आणि अगदी जिवातजीव आला. रात्री सुद्धा मस्त जेवण झाल्यावर परत तयार होऊन ९ च्या सुमारास आम्ही night trail साठी बाहेर पडलो... सलामीलाच अगदी जोरदार पाऊस लागला... आता  दुपारसारखा उजेडही नसल्यानं हातात छत्री, कॅमेऱ्या सोबत बॅटरीचीही भर पडली होती... त्यामुळं आमचं पुरतंच ध्यान झालं होतं... हा सगळा जामानिमा सांभाळत अंधारातून कधी खडक, कधी चिखल तर कधी लहान मोठे झरे, ओहोळ यातून चालताना, आता मात्र एकेक आंबोलीची वैशिष्ठ्य पाहायला मिळू लागली...  जसा की विषारी जातीचा Malabar Pit Viper, नितांत सुंदर इंद्रधनुचे रंग अंगावर मिरवणारा, दुर्मिळ जातीचा Khaire's Shield Tail Snake, Wrinkled Frog तोही अंडी देताना, Smiling Beauty म्हणून ओळखला जाणारा पण बघता क्षणी अंगावर सर्रकन काटा आणणारा Vine Snake, Mating Amboli Toads, Caterpiller of  Giant Moth, दिमाखदार  Malabar Gliding Frog आणि त्याचं घरटं सुद्धा... अशी एकापेक्षा एक पर्वणी समोर असताना वेळेचं भानंच राहिलं नाही... रात्रीचे २ वाजले होते. डोळे पेंगुळले होते, शरीर थकलं होतं, पण "ये दिल मांगे More.. " अशीच सगळ्यांची मनःस्थिती होती... रूम वर परतताना आमच्यातल्या काहींना चहाचे वेध लागले... आणि त्यांचं नशीब पण बघा, रात्री २ वाजताही एक चहाची टपरी चक्क सुरू देखील होती... अशी सर्वार्थानं आंबोली अनुभवून समाधानानं आम्ही गाढ झोपी गेलो...

       दुसऱ्या दिवशी चिम्बोsली.. आंबोली.. च्या आठवणी मनात आणि तो हिरवाकंच निसर्ग डोळ्यात साठवून आम्ही परत या रुक्ष, निरस अशा आमच्या दैनंदिन आयुष्याकडे परत फिरलो खरं..  पण इथ परत नक्की येण्याचं मनाशी ठरवूनच...

डॉ. मनीषा शेट्टी.. 



Burrowing Frog

Bicolored Frog

Bicolored Frog

Cricket Frog (Fregervariyar species)

Design

Snail

Amboli Bush Frog - Froglets



Amboli Bush Frog - Froglets


Malabar Pit Viper


Malabar Pit Viper

Vine- full

Vine Snake

Closeup


Symmetry


Wrinkled Frog Eggs

Wrinkled Frog

Closeup







Amboli toads Mating




Amboli Leaping Frog

Malabar Gliding Frog

Malabar Gliding Frog

Malabar Gliding Frog


Khaire's Shield Tail

Khaire's Shield Tail


Khaire's Shield Tail

Patterns

Closup
   
Diamonds
Do you see me!!

Pink

Droplets

iCampers

Author Photographed!!

Sunday, 27 September 2015

Amboli Travelogue - Sept 2015 (Author - Mukul P Markande) (Camp 18)


How would you feel if you get a chance to hike around in dense forests and through streams, well past the midnight, to see reptiles and amphibians, especially frogs, toads and snakes like Malabar pit Viper in their own habitat. At Amboli I went through that experience and I have no words to describe how I felt. We were right there, in their own backyard. It was an "out-of-this-world" experience to say the least, an adventure I would want to keep revisiting again and again. And my three friends accompanying me definitely shared the same sentiments. We couldn't help but feel like those top notch Nat Geo/Discovery Explorers who make it all happen on TV.

The sightings were amazing & it included a rare tussle for survival between a Deccan banded gecko and a cat snake! We were hoping that this hike would never end. But we had to give our herptile friends their much deserved privacy and so decided to call it a day.  

As we headed back to the hotel I looked at my watch for the first time during that trail & it showed - "2:35AM".

The picture below shows the "fight for life" between the snake and the gecko that we witnessed during our late night hike at Amboli. Any guesses on what would have happened next? 



Rewind back around 24hrs - Phone alarms started ringing early Saturday morning to let us know that it was time to get up, get ready and get started on the iCampers' maiden journey to the Amboli wetlands. The excitement was palpable & I am sure none of us needed an alarm to get up that day.  For the 4 of us - Kedar, Ninaad, Shreepad and myself the early morning synch-up was almost telepathic. No one needed a wake-up call nor any reminder calls & neither was anyone even a minute late. ( So much in contrast to our regular commute to the office where we have to make a minimum of 5 synch up calls amongst the carpooling partners. :) ) We left around the "BrahmaMuhurta - ब्रह्ममुहुर्त" - the best time of the day - & that probably set the tone for the entire trip.

In the car there was this aroma of hot upma freshly prepared by Joshi Kaku (Ninaad's Mom). We tried to resist ourselves from immediately eating it at the onset. But soon it became uncontrollable. So we took a quick stop to binge on the Upma. 

Meanwhile Shreepad couldn't resist another temptation, that of taking a few pictures of the rising sun along with the windmills and this is one of his unique PoV of the sunrise.



Next it was time for tea & little did we know that the Tea Stall on the highway would make us unpack our 100L macro lens. We were greeted by a Beautiful Green Butterfly (Common Emigrant), a pair of mating moths (sandlewood defoliator/wasp moth) and Scarlet Skimmer(f). Tea took a back-seat and we began hitting on these beautiful models posing in front of our cameras. A 5min T-Break turned out to be a 35min one, but no one was complaining. We had got these cool photographs for starters, and that too totally unexpected.

BTW, this would not be the only unexpected photography session that we would have, this would be the first of the many…

  
After our T-Break we were driving peacefully on NH4, having a good chit-chat, when around 1000AM seeing the beautiful lush green fields outside, we felt the urge to stop for a few minutes and take pictures. Little did we know that these "few minutes" will turn into a "few hours".  We all headed in various directions going after our favorite targets. Shreepad went out to shoot Sunflowers, Ninaad found some insects while I found a cute red ladybird. However Kedar was to be seen nowhere for quite some time. 





Suddenly we heard Kedar calling us in excitement from somewhere in a field at a distance. Inside that field there was a water body and lots of Baya Weaver nests. Some were under-construction too! 

The site was just awesome and we thoroughly enjoyed the chirping of the birds, their movements around and also got a few tips on interior decoration from the Baya Weaver. "Expect the unexpected" is what they say when it comes to Nature and Wildlife. It is so true. We were headed to Amboli and we were supposed to do macro photography & here we were, faced with a situation that needed atleast a 400mm :) 

Luckily Kedar had a 400mm & Ninaad had a 300mm so we took turns of shooting the Baya Weaver from our PoV by sharing the lenses. By the time we were satisfied enough it was around 12noon and the sun was shining brightly above us. Amboli was not far from here and by 1300hrs we were at the hotel trying to find a parking spot for our car.






After some R&R and malvani lunch, we left our hotel at around 1545hrs, fully armed to "shoot" (read as Take Pictures). 




 Near the Amboli Police Station, we met our guide, an unassuming, soft-spoken but a very knowledgeable person, and our wonderful tour officially kicked-off.









It was not raining that day, but the trail was beautiful. The track was covered with moss and we had to watch every step, lest we step on any of the tiny creatures jumping around (frogs, toads, geckos...). 





We could see a lot of species of miniature frogs and toads. The stand out was the "Amboli Toad" which is found only in Amboli. There were quite a few Blue Mormon's flying around the trail. We tried to take pictures of them but they were too fast for our cameras. Seeing so many around, we decided that we will not leave Amboli before taking a picture of a Blue Mormon, especially since it is now declared as the state butterfly of Maharashtra.




 As we walked further we saw this rounded structure perched up over a stone. 


At a first glance it was hard to believe it was living creature, more so a millipede. After spending some time with it, it "opened up" and flaunted its beautiful self before starting off to go home.



The daylight was diminishing fast, especially since we were under dense tree cover. However our guide was sharp enough to spot this cicada.




By the time we were done taking pictures of the cicada, it was almost dark. We could see a very beautiful twilight from an open area on the trail as we were returning back.


Thinking that we were done for this session, we packed our cameras and started our long walk back to the hotel. By now it was pitch dark and the light from the torch was the only light showing us the path to walk on. 

But then suddenly Kedar spotted a beautiful Blue Mormon peacefully "sleeping" on a tree with its wings wide open, posing perfectly for our cameras. What more to ask for! We took out our cameras and made quite a few pictures of this beautiful creature. As I had mentioned earlier in this blog we really wanted to photograph Blue Mormon but never thought that it would pose for us this early.

Well by now we had started expecting the unexpected from our trip. :)

 
We started our night trail at around 930. We had been to many National Parks earlier but a Night Hike to watch herptiles in their own habitat would be our first-of-its kind experience. 

As we walked into the habitat we saw the same Blue Mormon we had earlier photographed peacefully sleeping. Right besides him were these guys enjoying their good-night sleep. (Common Crow mating, Owl Moth)













Further down, we were greeted by a green caterpillar hanging by its strand out of nowhere. Normally it would be a spider who would love to hang around this way. 








We also saw this gecko. (Brooks House Gecko) 

 


The signature moment of the trip came when we spotted a tussle between the cat snake and the Deccan Banded gecko. The snake was going for a kill and was constricting the gecko in order to eat it, but the gecko was also squeezing the snake with its feet in order to escape. 

Ultimately the gecko emerged a winner and the snake let it go! There was a very thin line between life and death for the gecko but its fighting spirit saved its life. "Never Give Up" they say...! Even our guide was fascinated with this sighting. He indicated that he hadn't seen such a thing during his tenure as a guide here.




 



The snake was left hanging, probably wondering what actually happened and also thinking what to do next..


We were still in awe with what we had seen when going a bit further near the pond we were greeted by another superstar of Amboli - The Malabar Gliding Frog. We were also lucky to see its tadpole.




After having spent significant amount time with the Malabar Gliding Frog our guide changed directions and decided to take all of us "to a less traveled trail - on the unbeaten path" in search of the Malabar Pit Viper. As we were hiking, Ninaad was able to take this amazing pic of the Bombay Bush Frog. 



& Shreepad spotted this Hitler Bug and the gecko.



We were actually awestruck when our guide asked us to climb down into a stream where he thought we would be able to see that snake. It was an amazing experience to be walking through the stream on a pitch dark night with just the sound of the flowing water and that of the typewriter frogs. 


 



 As we explored various possible locations in search of the Malabar Pit Viper we encountered even more species of Frogs, mainly Borrowing Frog, Cricket Frog, Wrinkled Frog. We also saw eggs of the Wrinkled Frog.





And just when we had started thinking that maybe we won’t be lucky enough to see the Malabar Pit Viper, our guide spotted that snake hanging by the tree. (It is a venomous pit viper species endemic to southwestern India. No subspecies are currently recognized - src. wikipedia) 

I'll let the pictures do the talking. We almost ran out-of-memory making pics of this dude!  





We didn't want to leave but it was about time that we left all these herptiles alone. So we turned back. This is what we found on our way back. (Tailless whip scorpion)


 As we headed back to the hotel I looked at my watch for the first time during that trail & it showed - "2:35AM"

This was the last shot of the day..err.. night! :)


The opportunities for Photography at Amboli seem to be never ending & even our hotel provided a lot of them. We got up early the next morning, around 7AM, and the first thing we did even before having a cup of tea was to grab our cameras and take pictures around the hotel premises. One of the interesting catch was this Golden Emperor moth. 


We had to go out for our final hike by around 930AM, so we quickly had our breakfasts, got ready and headed off to meet our guide. The night trail was an amazing "out-of-this-world" experience for us and we were more than satisfied. So for the morning hike we decided not to go after anything specific but to enjoy the natural beauty of Amboli and for once explore the Flora around the Trails. 


We found some amazing Mushroom formations, Vanaspati Tree, Root parasite (Aeginetia Indica) amongst others. A few leaves also made up for some interesting "models".

 



Now it was that time of the day when we had to head back into the "real world". We packed our bags, checked out of the hotel and started our drive back home. Another destination had just been added to our "must frequently visit" list.

In the car we were tracing back our entire trip and we were totally pleased with what Amboli had offered us.

But guess what.. the party was not over yet...

We were barely about 30kms into the drive, when Kedar, who was driving the car, spotted this wonderful Rat snake alongside the road. 


We also spotted this amazing yellow caterpillar (Dysphania Militaris) on a tree nearby our car. Expect the unexpected… you see!


 I think this was Amboli's way of saying "Please come back to visit us again, there's much more to explore .."


Thank you all for coming this far .... hope you enjoyed reading this blog! I'll be interested in knowing your comments and feedback!!    

& Thanks to my dear friends Kedar Kulkarni, Ninaad Joshi & Shreepad Hardas for contributing their pictures to this blog and for everything :) !